The writer L.P Hartley once remarked ‘the past is a foreign country; they do things differently there.’ He wrote it in the introduction to his novel ‘The Go-Between’. The phrase has stuck in the public consciousness and become almost proverbial at this stage. The past, of course, is connected with memory and it’s when we least expect it, that we are confronted by memory. Just the other day, I hopped on a bus into the city. As we made our way around by the Bank of Ireland into O’Connell Street, I sat by the window watching the crowds as they moved along.
What one notices about Dublin now is that it is constantly filled with people and maybe because of this my mind was concentrated on the arrival rather than on the journey. It was a summer’s evening and everyone was dressed in summer clothes and the streets had a warm glow to them so it was pleasant and dreamy the way it is when one gets into the rhythm of a bus and is looking at nothing in particular but looking all the same.
As the bus was going over O’Connell Bridge, well, it was then that I saw him. It wasn’t him, of course, but someone who looked like him and suddenly I was transported back forty years as the shutter on my eye came down and clicked to capture an image – a photograph of a young Sikh walking over O’Connell Bridge looking for all the world like my old friend Harbajan Singh Seera.
I was sixteen back then and there was an advertisement in one of the magazines where young people seeking pen-friends give details and his name was there. The address was care of a P.O Box in Nairobi, Kenya. I wrote asking him to write back. A week later, an airmail envelope arrived with my address typewritten on the front. The envelope had three stamps showing images of East Africa. The letter contained a passport photo of a Sikh with a beard and a white turban.
That summer’s evening, as I watched this young Sikh walk over O’Connell Bridge, I was taken back to the box of letters, photos and postcards – a correspondence spanning years. Letters arrived regularly along with colour postcards of tigers, elephants, antelopes buffaloes and flamingos, and any number of other exotic images out of Africa that saturated the imagination of a young sixteen-year old. My only contact with Africa at the time would have been a trip to the cinema to watch Gregory Peck and Susan Hayward in ‘The Snows of Kilamanjaro.’
My friend Harbajan or ‘Phaji’ worked for East African Airlines and it was inevitable that a letter would arrive stating that he was coming to Ireland. And so he did. Phaji came to Dublin and stayed at my parents’ house and they got on like the proverbial ‘house on fire.’ My parents took to Phaji and Phaji took to them as if they had known each other all their lives.
Delighted with his outgoing personality, they took him to the pubs and clubs and before long Phaji was being called ‘Paddy’ and welcomed as an honorary Irishman! Phaji was a nine-day wonder in those day, his like rarely being seen on the streets of Dublin. Heads turned when he passed and when he went to the pub he happily sat sipping an orange juice – Sikhs neither smoke nor drink – answering questions about what it was like to live in Africa.
Phaji returned to Kenya two weeks later and we carried on corresponding, sending copies of the photos taken on his visit. Phaji enjoyed his visit to Ireland immensely and was welcomed wherever he went. But time and change caught up with us. We both went on to do other things. We wrote to each other less frequently tuntil gradually we ceased corresponding. Years later when I moved to live in London I received a phone call from my mother to say ‘Phaji rang,’ He’s in London working for British Airways and wants to get in touch, so we gave him your phone number.’ Perhaps he rang when I was out, but I’ll never know. We didn’t have mobiles phones in those days so maybe I missed his call.
We didn’t have a lot of things in those days but I think we were a lot more tolerant than we are now and we took people as we found them and didn’t make a big deal of difference. But that evening on the bus as I watched that young Sikh walk over O’Connell Bridge, I remembered the photograph taken in that very spot that showed a young sixteen year old girl wearing a black skirt and a woolly alpaca coat walking over O’Connell Bridge with her young Sikh friend Harbajan Singh Seera.
